When Italians cook dried pasta, they like it to be almost underdone by American standards; the wheatiness of the pasta becomes an important part of the flavor experience.

Spaghetti al Pomodoro

Makes 4 Servings

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped

1 28-ounce can peeled whole san marzano tomatoes

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

3 fresh basil leaves, minced

1 lb. spaghetti

Freshly grated parmigiano-reggiano

1. Heat oil in a earthenware or enameled cast-iron pot over medium heat.

2. Add garlic and sauté, stirring frequently, until golden, about 3 minutes.

3. Add tomatoes, along with the juice from the can. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

4. Increase heat to high, bring sauce to a boil, and cook until liquid has reduced slightly, about 5 minutes.

5. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer, stirring occasionally, for about 30 minutes.

6. Add basil leaves and cook for 15 minutes more.

7. Meanwhile, cook spaghetti in a large pot of boiling salted water until al dente, 10-12 minutes.

8. Drain in a colander, add pasta to sauce, and salt well.

Serve with parmigiano.

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